We supply a complete line of slide bolts that will help protect valuables in your garage or mini-warehouse. You can add to your security with a Heavy Duty Security Slide Bolt (SSL-1P) that prevents the shackle of a padlock from being cut, while at the same time allows a second padlock to be added.
Once the door deteriorates to the point that it is unsafe or detracts from the appearance of your home, it’s a good time to invest in a new door. Don’t overlook the condition of the door jamb - if it’s rotting it should be replaced. These are common signs of hardware deterioration that you can detect:
Every time the door is opened or closed, listen for sounds of wearing metal or door rubbing the frame. Also look at the cantilever arms to make sure they aren’t bent.
Are the main bearings or any of the other pivot points worn? They should be oiled monthly.
Do you have contained springs and safety connectors? Remember if one spring breaks, replace them all. It probably won’t be long until the others wear and break.
Place a wood shim (3/8” thick) under the door about 12” from each side jamb.
Slide the door into place with the bottom of the door resting on the shims and the top of the door against the header. Position door so it is perfectly vertical and centered, horizontal in the opening. The gap between door and jamb should be equal (about 3/8” on each side).
The safety containment wire inside the spring may be tangled that prevents the spring from stretching. To untangle, twist the spring 1/2 of a turn when the spring is off the hardware...or you might consider purchasing a set of adjustable jamb connectors (LJ-1P) that allows you to pre-stretch the springs easily with a wrench.
Not until you adjust the garage door hardware (hinges) and springs. The garage door operator only replaces your hand... the easier it is for the operator to open and close the door, the longer the operator will last.
The main pivot point is located where the master arm pivots on the master plate. The master arm is a heavy steel bar, usually 3/8" thick and 1-3/4" wide, to which the kicker and springs are attached. The master arm has between five and seven holes at the end where the springs mount. The master plate is an 8" wide steel plate with a bent flange that mounts to the jamb.
The header is the structural piece of lumber that forms the top of the door opening. It is usually a 4 x 12 piece of lumber or larger, and it supports the weight of the building over the door opening. The garage door should close tightly against the back of the header.
First, it is important to determine whether or not the door and the opening are square. Ideally, the door and opening will both be square and fit properly. However, if either the door or the opening is not square, then the door will never sit square in the opening.
If both the door and the opening are not square, they must be equally out of square in order for the door to fit properly in the opening. If the door is the correct size and shape to fit properly in the opening, the gap on each side of the door will be 3/8" to 1/2" and uniform. If the gap is not uniform, it is possible that the installer did not use the same size shims on both sides of the door. If the door needs to be re-shimmed, the installer must go back to Step 5 in the installation Instructions and re-position the door angle on the door.
At the factory, a 3/8" bolt, bushing, and nut are installed in the kicker slot. The kicker is designed to provide the installer with a method of adjusting the balance of the door in the lower 1/2 of travel. The idea is to provide an additional cushioning effect to keep the door from slamming closed. Refer to Step 11 of the installation instructions. If the bolt, bushing, and nut are missing from the kickers, the customer should contact the factory for replacement.
The amount of headroom clearance required will depend on the model number of the hardware. The E900 requires 5" in the #1 headroom hole, 3" in the #2 headroom hole, and 1" in the #3 headroom hole. Refer to Table 1 in Step 2 of the installation instructions. For other model numbers, refer to the book of headroom and swing-out curves.
The best alternative for the average homeowner is to recommend that they purchase the Lower Jamb Connector (LJ-1 P) and replace the chain. The LJ- 1P makes it much easier to adjust the stretch of the spring, because it allows the customer to use a screwdriver and/or wrench to make the adjustments. If the customer prefers to use the chain, the spring must be removed from the kicker in order to move the lower end of the spring up or down on the chain. The technique for removing or replacing the spring from the kicker requires good hand, leg, and back strength. To remove the spring from the kicker, the person must (1) straddle the springs with legs bent, (2) firmly grip the top of the springs, and (3) straighten the legs and pull up on the spring removing it from the kicker. The same technique is used to replace the spring.
Wide doors, like most 2-car garage doors, are usually reinforced with truss rods. If the door does not have truss rods, the customer can be referred to purchase them. If the door has truss rods, they may have loosened allowing the door to sag. In this case, the nuts on the end of the rods should be tightened until the sag is eliminated. In some cases, the door has been sitting in a sagging position for many years, and the wood has permanently deformed. In cases like this, it is impossible to remove all of the sag.
The door may be too thick for the size of the doorjambs.
The doorjambs may be too narrow for the thickness of the door.
The installer may have omitted Step 5 of the installation instructions that states "Loosen 3/8" carriage bolts on cantilever arms"... This allows the installer to adjust the position of the door angle to accommodate a range of door thickness.
Installation and adjustment must be made in accordance with the installation instructions. The hardware must be mounted while the door is in the closed position. The springs must be mounted and adjusted while the door is in the open position. It is always good practice to advise the customer that the door must be safely propped in the open position while making adjustments to the springs.
Yes, some adjustments should be made with the door in the closed position.
If Step 5 of the installation instructions was omitted during the initial installation, the cantilever arm adjustment should be made with door in the closed position.
If, after initial installation, it is determined that there is not enough headroom, the headroom adjustment shown in Step 2 of the installation instructions should be made with the door in the closed position.
A common cause for this is that the same measure down dimension was not used on both sides of the door. Another possible cause is that the opening may not be level, making it seem that the door is not level.
The measure down dimension is the measurement that is used to correctly position the master plate on the jamb. It is the measurement from the bottom of the header to the lag screw hole for the top hole in the master plate. The measure down dimension is important because it positions the hardware so that, when the door is open, it is sitting level. Each model of hardware has a different measure down dimension, and it is always necessary to add the thickness of the door to the measurement.
The thickness of the door should be measured from the back of the door, where the door angle is mounted, to the outer most surface of the face of the door. This must include any decorative molding on the face of the door.
The measure-down dimension may be to short. This will cause the door to be mounted too high, which prevents the door from opening all the way.
The springs may not have the recommended 1" to 2" of pre-stretch to hold the door fully open.
The electric garage door opener may be adjusted to stop before the door is completely open. The customer should refer to the operator instructions or contact the opener manufacturer for the proper steps to adjust the opener.